What is the best camera (part 3/3)
So, you want to buy a digital camera. How do you decide what will give you the best bang for your buck? Well, even this is somewhat difficult to decide. First off, you should know a bit about the features
Manual controls – In particular, manual focus and manual iris (exposure). Most cameras will have this, though cheaper cameras will require diving into the menus to turn it on. If you have anything on automatic the image will may rapidly change focus or exposure rapidly…this is the trademark of amateur cinematographers.
XLR audio – Its unlikely you’ll find XLR audio on most cameras under $1000. XLR is the type of input that allows you to connect most good microphones. Most cameras under $1000, and even some between $1000 and $3000 only have a 1/8th inch microphone input. Don’t buy the microphones that fit these plugs…they are pretty much useless (except for one, but that’s another article). Instead, if you have to settle for a camera with 1/8th inch plug, you can buy an adaptor that will allow you to hook up XLR microphones. Its not the best solution, since it could result in noise, but its better than nothing.
Zebra – Zebra is a function that shows zebra strips over areas that are overexposed. It’s a quick and dirty way to make sure you don’t overexposure the picture without having to resort to carrying a light meter around with you.
Gamma curve – Gamma curve is essentially an adjustment to the way the camera’s DSP is handling the signal coming from the CCD. Film tends to react in a nonlinear fashion in response to light, whereas up until this feature was introduced, video reacted linearly. If all that sounds confusing to you, suffice it to say that a good gamma curve setting makes the colors appear more like film. You won’t find this setting on cameras under $3000.
Real buttons – The more features actually have real buttons as opposed to a “soft” menu the better. If the iris is a dedicated wheel you can adjust it very quickly. Beginning cinematographers and directors never give much consideration to a camera’s ease of operation. Be sure to check out (LINK) the importance of an easy camera.
24p – This means that the camera has the ability to record 24 frames per second progressively (not interlaced). A typical video camera records interlaced frames, meaning it records every other line, then comes back and fills in the gaps. This is what causes those jagged lines on fast moving objects, or when the camera moves suddenly. Conversely, a camera that records in 24 frames per second progressive has a more film-like blur on motion.
Other Electronic options – Some cameras allow for adjustments of contrast, black-knee, (ADD OTHERS). These options are less necessary because they require some level of expertise to adjust them. However, its better to have the option, than to need it and not have it. I’ll be posting an article on how to adjust some of these parameters soon.
High frame rates – If you want to do really impressive looking slow motion you’ll need a camera that shoots 48 or even 60frames per second. In the past you needed a $120,000 varicam to do this digitally. However, cameras with this function are finally being introduced into the under $10,000 market. However, one warning…most of the cameras that currently have this function require expensive more recording media, or more difficult acquisition techniques. If you are on a low budget you should probably avoid these cameras for now.
So….what camera?
Geez you guys are persistant. Well, I’m going to avoid going into really specific recommendations for right now. After all, camera’s are being updated every day, so there is a chance that any specific recommendation I’d make would be out of date in just a few months. I intend to do a few camera reviews as I can get my hands on different models. For now I’ll just say I’ve always been a big fan of the DVX100a, so if you are looking for a DV cam in the $3000 range find one you can borrow or rent and check it out. But stay tuned for upcoming camera reviews.
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